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Composting Practices   Composting PracticesH-885 (Revised), May 1992 Ronald C. Smith, Extension Horticulturist and Turfgrass Specialist Why Compost? Cool System Hot System Benefits of Compost Benefits of Compost as a Topdressing for Turfgrass One of the reasons North Dakota was so attractive to early settlers was the highorganic matter content of the soil: crops sown grew at rapid rates and produced yieldsthat were to set some standards for the Upper Midwest. Soil management in those early years was in the utilization of organic matter residue.Petroleum based fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides were unheard of in 1900. Barnyardmanure, straw, corncobs, etc., were all reincorporated into the soil to return somenutrient value, but primarily to maintain the soil's superior tilth. The compost pile or bin was a common farmstead sight in those days. The familyvegetable garden, flower garden, trees, shrubs and lawn would receive benefits fromapplication of composted or organic matter. Why Compost?Proper composting is the gradual aerobic microbial decomposition of organic material.When the finished product, compost (also known as humus), is removed from the bin or pileit is a dark, friable, odorless product, very similar to the organic matter found in thesoil. The quickly available nutrient value in compost is generally very low, but its majorinfluence is on the improvement of physical conditions in the soil structure and slowrelease of nutrients (especially nitrogen). Adding properly aged compost to the soil will improve its water holding capacity andenrich the soil bacterial activity which, in turn, has a direct affect on the availabilityof some mineral salts to plants. If fresh organic matter were added to garden or flower bed soil, the microbes whichcarry out the decomposing process would compete with the growing plants for the availablenitrogen. When this occurs, the plants usually show a nitrogen deficiency as a yellowingof the older foliage. Today's typical homeowner has an aversion to establishing a compost pile: "It willattract rodents"; "It will draw flies"; "I don't want to offend myneighbors with the smell"; go the typical comments. Actually, the properly managedcompost pile has none of these problems. Basically, there are two acceptable systems for compost production: a very simple,cool, low production method utilizing only dry organic wastes, such as lawn clippings,leaves and corn husks, and a more rapid, sophisticated, high temperature productionsystem, utilizing most organic kitchen waste as well as yard and garden refuse. Cool System This is simply a pile of leaves, grass clippings, egg shells, pea pods, etc., whichslowly decompose into humus. Because of the low temperature associated with this type ofcompost production, weed seeds and plant diseases are not killed. Consequently, weedswhich have gone to seed or plants which are obviously diseased should not be added to thepile. Because a system such as this takes four to six months to produce compost, nutrientleaching (especially nitrogen) could take place. If a speeded up production of compost isdesired, then occasional turning of the pile, and the addition of nitrogenous fertilizer,along with some water, will cut the time for compost production in half. If ants invadethe compost pile, it is an indication it is being kept too dry. Hot System The purpose of this system (shown in Figure 1) is to accelerate the decompositionprocess, and in so doing, kill of most weed seeds and plant pathogens. The size of the compost pile should not exceed 6 feet (1.8 m) in height, and themaximum size of the organic matter pieces should be 6-9 inches (15-23 cm) long. If binsare constructed, the dimensions of 5x5x6 feet will yield 150 cubic feet (4.3 cu. m) ofcompost. This is a respectable volume of compost to produce in a four- to six-week timeperiod and will cover over 500 square feet (47 sq. m) to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). At this accelerated production rate, the average finished compost can be expected tohave the following principle constituents available for plant growth: Water . . . 10-15% Organic matter . . . 10-20% Nitrogen . . 0.8% Phosphorus . . . 0.45% Potassium . . . 1.45% Lime . . . 1.25% Magnesium . . . 0.3% If bad smells are noted from the compost pile, it usually means that anaerobic bacteriaare more active than the aerobic, and that aerobic decomposition is slowing down. This isusually caused by excessive moisture in the bottom of the compost pile. The problem can beeasily corrected by turning the pile. To keep the aerobic bacteria population high and active, 0.25 pound (0.12 kg) of actualnitrogenous fertilizer should be added per cubic foot of dry matter and punch holes (fourto five) into the center of the pile. This is best done in phases or stages as the compostpile is building up. In our example of 150 cubic feet, if the pile is built up over aperiod of three stages - at 2 feet (0.61 m), 4 feet (1.2 m) and 6 feet (1.8 m), 12.5pounds (5.7 kg) of a nitrogen fertilizer (1:0:0 ratio) should be added at each step. Thetotal should be about 37-40 pounds (17-18 kg) of fertilizer for the entire pile. In this high-temperature, bacterially active system, it is best to turn the compostingmaterial every three to four days. Once activated, expect the temperature to range between120-160�F (49-71�C). The decomposition will go faster in summer (as short as three tofour weeks) and take more time in the spring and fall. No measurable activity occursduring typical North Dakota winters. Once the compost is no longer hot and is an odor-free, crumbling material, it is readyfor garden use. Two alternatives of the hot production system exist. One involves using a plastic trashbag, where the bag is rolled over every day. The other uses commercially available compostbins. Both will yield a compost product in two to three weeks.  Figure 1. The three-bin method of compostproduction:Bin 1 -- The raw material bin. Daily refuse from the kitchen such as coffeegrounds, egg shells and vegetable shavings, refuse from the vegetable or flower garden,grass clippings, shredded leaves. Turn every two to three weeks.Bin 2 -- The next stage of decomposted material which is taken from the bottom ofbin 1 goes into this bin. It is turned every three to four days, until the material ishumus. It is then transferred to bin 3.Bin 3 -- The compost or humus, ready for use. This method assures that onlycompletely composted material is returned to the soil.Construction Notes: 4 inches x 4 inches x 8 feet boards (10 x 10cm x 2.4 m) can beset into the ground 36 inches (92 cm) deep; hardware cloth (0.25 inches or 0.64 cm) canthen be tacked to 3 opening sides for maximum aeration and separation of the piles. Thefront side is left open to allow turning and removal. Another version can be made usingconcrete block (8 x 8 x 16 in) (20 x 20 x 4 cm) to define the bins. They are simply set onlevel ground.Also note: Keep piles away from buildings due to possible fire hazards.Benefits of CompostBeside improving the physical structure of the soil, using compost has these otherbenefits: Modifies temperature extremes in the soil, keeping it cooler in the summer and warmer in winter. Utilizes rainfall or irrigation water more efficiently, because less moisture is lost due to evaporation and runoff by permitting better absorption. Adds a bank of biological activity to the soil, which contributes to more efficient nutrient uptake and the tieing up of certain ions, notably aluminum and iron, which may be toxic at a low soil pH. A buffering capacity (resist change in pH) is added to the soil with the addition of compost. The effects of over-fertilization are not as critical. Because of its tremendous cation-holding capacity, the addition of compost to the soil would allow for the holding of plant nutrients for a longer period of time. As a mulch at least 2 inches (5 cm) thick, a reduction in weed problems can be expected. If the compost is to be used as a mulch, it is suggested that a minimum of 2 inches (5cm) be used, with 4 inches (10 cm) being better. All plant material, vegetables, flowers,roses, trees and shrubs, can benefit from the use of compost. The mulch cover should bemaintained throughout the growing season for best results. A CautionDo not add paper products, especially colored paper, unless they are explicitlybiodegradable. Foil, meat scraps and plastic should also be avoided. Benefits of Compost as a Topdressing for TurfgrassIf all the environmental and physical conditions of composting are optimized, theprocess goes through three distinct phases (refer to Figure 2). First, a rapid rise intemperature, followed by a prolonged high-temperature phase in which rapid decompositionof the organic matter takes place. At this stage, the microbial antagonist population iseither non-existent or at a very low ebb. Phase 3, the final or curing phase, is where thecompost material begins cooling and decomposition decreases or ceases altogether. Duringthis phase, the microbial antagonist population increases dramatically. Topdressing with the humus or finished compost at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 squarefeet have been shown experimentally to suppress diseases such as dollar spot, brown patch,Pythium and red thread. Heavier applications of the humus from compost piles at rates of200 pounds per 1000 square feet were shown to be effective in suppressing winter diseasessuch as Typhula blight and in providing the grass surface from winter ice and freezingdamage. This fungicidal effect of compost on some of these pathogens is due to a number offactors. The microbial antagonists may parasitize the pathogens, colonize plant parts,and/or compete with pethogens for resources in soil and on plants. The homeowner shouldunderstand this is simply experimental information. The predictability of the suppressiveactivity of certain composts at controlling diseases is not yet available without actuallyfield testing. (Initial research on this subject was carried out by Dr. Eric Nelson,Cornell University.)  Figure 2. During Phase I of the compostingprocess, initial heating takes place and readily soluble components are degraded. DuringPhase II, cellulose and hemicellulose are degraded under high temperature (thermophilic)conditions. This is accompanied by the release of water, carbon dioxide, ammonia and heat.Finally, during Phase III, curing and stabilization are accompanied by a drop intemperatures and increased humification of the materiaL Recolonization of rhe compost bymesophilic microorganisms occurs during Phase III. Included in these microbial communitiesare populations of antagonists.H-885, May 1992.Reviewed and reprinted July 1995. County Commissions, North Dakota State University and U.S. Department ofAgriculture cooperating.North Dakota State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color,national origin, religion, , gender identity, disability, age, status as a U.S. veteran,ual orientation, marital status, or public assistance status. Direct inquiries to theVice President for Equity, Diversity and Global Outreach, 205 Old Main, (701) 231-7708.This publication will be made available in alternative formats for peoplewith disabilities upon request, 701 231-7881.  Information for Prospective Students NDSU is an equal opportunity institution This information may be photocopied for noncommercial, educational purposes in its entirety with no changes. Requests to use any portion of the document should be sent to NDSU.permission@ndsu.edu. 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